Unlike other European cities, Graz feels like a “lived-in” town. On any given day, you might run into people sprinting to catch the morning tram, anemic university boys drinking white wine, or women in hijabs babysitting tow-headed children. On the morning of the Corpus Christi Procession, I heard the Ride of the Valkyries blasting from an open window.
Modern art crops up in the most unexpected places in Graz.
The avant garde Augarten Hotel Art & Design may not be in the flossiest of locations, but it has friendly staff, intriguing garden sculptures, and the best restaurant in Graz. Magnolia is open Monday to Friday, 12 – 2 p.m. and 6 – 10 p.m. Special menus can run to 4-5 courses + “gifts from the kitchen”. Reservations are required.